Abstract
Today the use of enzymes in textile processing and after-care is
already well established industrial technology. Enzymatic process
applications have increased substantially due to developments in genetic
engineering, as specific enzymes can be efficiently modified for targeted
applications. In addition, being biological molecules and efficient
catalysts, enzymes can provide environmentally acceptable routes to replace
harsh chemicals. Furthermore enzymatic processes can be applied using
equipment already existing in the textile industry. The cellulases of the
soft-rot fungus Trichoderma reesei are the most studied and understood of all
cellulolytic systems. Cellulases are used for modification of cellulosic
fibres and fabrics, e.g. cotton, viscose and lyocell, yielding properties
such as stonewashing, peach-skin and biofinishing effects. Cellulases are
usually applied as multi-component enzyme systems and most of the commercial
cellulases contain a variety of different activities. The cellulolytic system
of T. reesei is composed of two cellobiohydrolases (CBHI and CBHII), at
least six endoglucanases and two ß-glucosidases. Cellulases are known to act
synergistically in the hydrolysis of crystalline cellulose. Endoglucanases
randomly attack the amorphous regions in cellulosic substrates, whereas
cellobiohydrolases can also act the crystalline regions of cellulose,
releasing cellobiose from the ends of cellulose chain. In the present
investigation, purified T. reesei cellulases CBHI, CBHII, EGI and EG II were
used to treat different types of cotton fabrics in order to evaluate the
effects of individual mono-component cellulases on cotton properties. By
comparing the impact of mono-component cellulases on cotton twill and poplin
woven fabrics and interlock knitted fabric, it became apparent that
cellobiohydrolases and endoglucanases have different effects on the tested
fabrics. CBHII did not have any pronounced effect on cotton. By contrast CBHI
produced significant amounts of reducing sugars and caused weight loss of
fabrics. When a high hydrolysis degree was used, i.e. the weight loss was
pronounced, EGII caused more strength loss than either EGI or CBHs. By
limiting the treatment time and using additional mechanical action it was
observed that EGII was able to improve the pilling properties of cotton
fabrics even at low weight and strength loss levels. In addition, the
possible synergistic effects between different cellulases were evaluated with
different ratios of endo- and exoglucanases. According to weight loss and
reducing sugar analyses, both endoglucanases exhibited clear synergism with
CBHI. EGI also showed slight synergism with CBHII. Practically no endo-endo
or exo-exo synergism was observed on the basis of weight loss analysis.
Compared to cellulase mixtures, the EGII treatment alone improved the pilling
resistance more and resulted in less weight and strength losses at the same
protein dosages. Thus, there was no correlation between high weight loss and
good pilling results. On the basis of the knowledge obtained from the
mono-component treatments, new cellulase preparations with different profiles
of T. reesei cellulases were developed. Using these experimental cellulases,
it was found that high pilling removal was dependent on the fabric type,
and again EGII-based cellulase products yielded the most positive depilling
results. It was also shown that the strength loss could be minimized by
having only EGII present in the cellulase mixture. The effects of the
purified endoglucanases and cellobiohydrolases and an experimental cellulase
mixture on denim were also evaluated. The results confirmed that
endoglucanases are the cellulases required for a good stone washing effect,
and EGII was the most effective in removing color from denim despite a very
low hydrolysis level. CBHI did not produce any stone washing effect. When
the impact of purified cellulases on the molecular weight distribution of
cotton powder obtained after enzyme treatment was studied, EGII was the only
enzyme which reduced the molecular weight of cotton powder with high
mechanical action. The results also showed that mechanical agitation affected
the performance of EGII more than that of EGI measured as weight loss and
molecular weight of cotton powder.
Original language | English |
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Qualification | Doctor Degree |
Awarding Institution |
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Supervisors/Advisors |
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Award date | 5 Dec 2002 |
Place of Publication | Espoo |
Publisher | |
Print ISBNs | 951-38-6019-1 |
Electronic ISBNs | 951-38-6020-5 |
Publication status | Published - 2002 |
MoE publication type | G5 Doctoral dissertation (article) |
Keywords
- cotton
- fibres
- wowen fabrics
- knitted fabrics
- processing
- finishing
- enzymes
- cellulases
- textile finishing
- stone washing
- biofinishing
- mono-component cellulases
- cellobiohydrolase